FAQs

You got questions? I got answers.

  • Leash skills
    Listen, no one wants their arm pulled off during walks. I can help you enjoy walks with your dog again! If you’re currently using tools like prong collars, e-collars, or head halters, I will support you in safely (and non-judgementally) transitioning to non-aversive tools.

    Recall & off-leash skills
    Think you need an e-collar to have stellar recall? Think again. I can show you how to get the rocket recall of your dreams—no aversive tools needed!

    Aggression, fear, & reactivity
    You know your dog is a wonderful creature with a good heart, but it can be hard to remember that when they’re snarling at strangers or lunging at dogs. Behavior therapy is my specialty! I know your dog is not defined by this behavior, and I can help you help your dog succeed in challenging circumstances.

    All things puppy!
    Puppies are adorable. They are also little monsters! I can show you how to raise your puppy to be well-socialized and happy…while minimizing damage to your prized possessions.

    Socialization & remedial socialization
    Properly socializing your dog can be hard when you’re constantly consumed by life’s everyday demands. I can help show your dog the world, introduce them to new experiences, engineer safe playtime with vetted humans and dogs, and acclimate to handling for grooming and vet visits.

    Newly adopted dogs
    As someone with two adopted dogs, I know it can be hard to help rescues acclimate to their new normal. With support and planning, I can help you and your new baby live the life you deserve together, even in the face of behavioral challenges.

    Prey drive & chasing
    Your dog is great on walks—until he sees a squirrel, and then he’s a bat out of hell! I love teaching dogs and humans how to manage and channel prey drive, without using pain or fear.

    Veterinary visits & handling
    I love helping dogs and their families minimize stress for necessary handling! I teach cooperative care practices, which is where your dog can learn to be an active participant in handling, as well as how to “get it done” when “it” is necessary.

    I’m also here to support you before and during vet visits, handling your dog as necessary and giving the medical staff input on how to interact safely with your dog.

    Canine Good Citizen Test
    The CGC is a great way to build the foundational behaviors your dog will need to live comfortably in this distinctly non-doggie society of ours.

    Some landlords, home insurance companies, and travel accommodations will take a CGC certificate into account when offering their services.

  • In accordance with the positions of every reputable animal behavior organization in the world, I am a force-free trainer. Being a force-free trainer means that I collect a detailed history of your dog’s physical health and behavior history, ensure their needs are being met, and set realistic expectations based on who your dog is (breed, health, adoption history, and more), before even starting training.

    I use many methods to affect behavior: systematic counter-conditioning and desensitization, positive reinforcement, and effective management are just a few. Instead of relying on punishment, I ask why your dog is doing what they’re doing, and then work with you to change their environment and teach them skills that will set them up for success. I do not use methods designed to cause pain, fear, or discomfort (such as leash pops, raised voices, or ear pinches, to name a few).

    Positive reinforcement has been proven to be the best and most humane way to train dogs. And food is often a great reinforcer! However, the learner—your dog—decides what is reinforcing for them. If it’s play or freedom and not food, we’ll use that!

    Like famous behaviorist B.F. Skinner said, “What is love except for another name for positive reinforcement? Or vice versa.”

    I don’t use equipment designed to be aversive. This includes prong collars, choke chains, and electric collars. If you currently use one or more of these, I will support you in safely (and non-judgmentally) transitioning to non-aversive equipment. Of course, any equipment can be aversive if handled incorrectly, so I’ll also be there to teach you how to use the equipment we put into use.

  • Yes! In fact, aggressive dogs are often the ones who need it the most. Did you know that fear is the most common emotion behind aggression? It might not make sense to us as humans to try and bite what scares us, but for some dogs, it feels like the only option.

    It’s been proven that force-free methods are the only ethical way to treat any dog, aggressive dogs included. Additionally, methods that use fear/pain/discomfort have been shown to cause unnecessary stress, safety concerns, and long-term behavior problems. Check out the AVSAB Position Statement on Humane Training for more information.

  • Yep. It’s a myth that certain breeds and large dogs need a “heavy hand.” Breed absolutely plays a part in your dog’s behavior, and my training advice will take that into account. That being said, all sentient creatures can learn without punishment, from killer whales to dogs to human beings.

  • Absolutely…not. Dogs are not robots we can program to neatly match our desires. They are sentient creatures who change and grow all the time. I can guarantee you that I will use every resource available to me to build a responsible training plan for you and your dog. I am confident that I can improve you and your dog’s quality of life. And I can absolutely provide support if you need it in the future. But I cannot guarantee I can “fix” your dog, because your dog is not a broken toaster—they are a sentient being.

    Would it be reasonable for a child psychologist to guarantee that the child they’re treating will not grow up to have behavior concerns? Nope. In fact, it’s not only unreasonable, it’s unethical.

  • No! Dogs, like us, are always learning. Acquiring new skills in adulthood may be more difficult than in puppyhood, but it’s far from impossible. In fact, keeping your dog’s brain and body active are an essential part of helping them age with health and grace.

  • Puppies should have time to be puppies! I am happy to start training as early as 12 weeks, but for young puppies, this training will focus on creating a trusting bond between you and your dog, creating safe and healthy socialization plans, and basics like toilet and separation training. Stuff like obedience and leash skills are not the focus when you’ve got a literal baby on your hands!

  • I can offer you an approximate timeline based on your dog’s unique goals and needs. This will differ greatly from dog to dog. However, dogs are sentient creatures, which means that there will always be an element of unpredictability to any schedule we try to create.

    It’s normal and expected to hit road bumps, for training to plateau for a time, and to pause training for health or personal reasons. Training plans are flexible, and I will keep you fully informed of any changes in plans.

  • Group classes and playgroups are offered on a limited basis to existing clients. Please contact me for information on future events.

  • Most training sessions will occur at your home—I will come to you.

    If your dog’s struggles are specific to a certain environment, location, or situation, I may recommend we meet somewhere else (such as a park or dog-friendly store, for example).

  • Monday-Thursday, 9:00 AM-4:00 PM.

    Evenings on these days are available by appointment if needed.

    I observe the following holidays:

    Memorial Day (5/27/2024)

    Juneteenth (6/19/2024)

    Fourth of July (7/4/2024)

    Labor Day (9/2/2024)

    Indigenous Peoples’ Day (10/14/24)

    Thanksgiving (11/28/2024)

    Black Friday (11/24/2024)

    Christmas Eve (12/24/2024)

    Christmas Day (12/25/2024)

    New Year's Eve (12/31/2024)

    New Year's Day (1/1/2025)

  • My service area is within a 20-minute radius of zip code 23222.

    I see clients outside this service area on a limited basis. Locations outside my service may incur a travel fee. Please contact me for details should this be needed.

  • I accept card, cash, Apple Pay, Google Pay, and Cash App. You can also chose to pay directly from your bank account.

    You will receive an invoice via email before your service(s). Payment is due at time of service.

  • Clients may reschedule or cancel an appointment at no cost, as long as they give more than 24 hours notice.

    Canceling or rescheduling within 24 hours of the appointment incurs a fee of 50% of the cost of the relevant service.

    No-call no-shows incur the full fee of the relevant service.

  • Dogs 16 weeks or older are required to have up-to-date rabies and distemper vaccines OR titer tests for both vaccines. Proof of this will be requested before training begins.

    Puppies 16 weeks or younger are not required to be fully vaccinated. Puppies who are not fully vaccinated can absolutely start training! In fact, starting training at a young age can help set your pup up for success for the rest of their life. All training will be done with in accordance with AVSAB’s (American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior) position on puppy socialization.

  • No, I do not. I am happy to work with intact dogs.

    Proper precautions will be taken to ensure that an intact dog cannot impregnate another dog. Dogs in heat will likely be kept separate from unknown dogs during their training.